Is it customary to fail engineering classes?

Homemade scooter with pedal. Scooter ... for adults. Where to buy scooter hummingbird and its cost

Every boy's dream is to ride a scooter. However, do not take a ride and modern girls. But now the usual scooter has a more desirable replacement - a scooter with a motor. And there can be not only a child to ride with the "breeze", but also an adult.

For the youngest children (4-7 years) you can buy cheaply roller "Hummingbird"what is produced in blue and red colors.

The maximum speed is small - 10 km / hBut for the baby who ride such a scooter is a real rally. You can drive while charging 4 km. Will stand up to the child's foldable design weight up to 40 kg. Savokat himself weighs only 8.2 kg. The child can pick it up on the floor alone. A wide legrest - 580x130 mm, the size of the wheels with tires in diameter is 137 mm, which indicates the reliability and safety of the vehicle. Wheel discs in stock and they are made from durable plastic. Throttle grip to control the speed, solid tires, drum rear guard lead-acid maintenance device that is required up to 8 hours full charge, motor 120 W. - These are the main features of the model. Dream, not scooter!

Where to buy a Hummingbird scooter and its cost?

The cost of this wonder toy and, at the same time, the personal vehicle only $ 69. You can buy a scooter .

Small costs and imagination will help to make rollers from ordinary battery drills

In the trading network today, the choice of ElevospaSots is huge, but you can easily make electrotopt from the drill battery and still have to dismantle the Bulgarian. Craftsmen who already ride scooters with an engine that they made with their own hands say that an engine that is evolving 550 revolutions per minuteIt is enough to drive through the city streets.

The battery is also suitable from the drill - 14.4V

The frame can be made from the usual profile steel tube (Wall thickness 2.5 mm) - it will stand completely weight of 100 kg. Or use the frame from the ordinary scooter. In Cymagazin you need to buy rubber grips, assemble the steering wheel, the bearing is thrust, designed for a load of 300 kg. There are several ways to transmit the rotation to the wheel: with the chain, two gears, friction jet, with rigid gear and motorcycles. However, the last option is not practical to implement as this important item must be ordered in China.

Do you have to decide immediately which of the wheels will turn? Even to connect the generator, you will need an overrunning clutch (too easy to buy), bearings, wheels. The battery will adjust lithium polymer (11.1V 2.2Ah). Sure until everything, you can get a good vehicle.

How much does it cost to make an electric sink from a drill?

The cost of making electric sinks with your own hands is about five thousand rublesagainst the cost of design in the commercial network cost 14-140 thousand rubles.

Useful link, Electrosocat with your own hands:

Scooter, it certainly is not, but it allows you to save the strength when moving, especially if you use it constantly.

The homemade scooter is easy to make, its cost is minimal, and the body health benefits are just priceless! After all, constant uniform loads are known to strengthen the heart muscle and increase the overall tone of the body. Scooter assembled with his own hands will help increase stamina, if of course it can be used on a daily basis.

Wooden scooter for travel to work. Scooter is made of plywood 10 mm and has a furniture sign. 28 mm, the latter went to the supporting platform.

The front fork of the scooter is removed from the bicycle (wheel 20 inches), the rear wheel of the smaller diameter (12 inches).

The roller is assembled with their own hands, self-tapping screws and furniture corners are used as fasteners, apart from all the details are dotted by PVA glue.

In the summer of 2012, more than 600 km were redirected on a homemade scooter.

On this description, it is worth noting that such a homemade scooter is much better bought. I haven't seen a normal scooter on pneumatic tires for an affordable price. Even scooters with 2 suspensions (for each wheel) from the Dekatulon do not let driving on the lawn or on the country road and when driving paving slabs or turned up asphalt on the road part "knock" and vibrate very strongly, which is very annoying.

Bicycle wheels used in the homemade scooter allow you to avoid such shaking, and the large diameter of the wheels helps out of the road. Plus, you can design the release of your scooter yourself when you go to the locking - do more!

With proper manufacture and subsequent treatment with varnish (desirable waterproof - for example, a yacht), homemade scooters will serve you for a long year!

Still items for homemade.

In this article we influence the topic of house make again, this time it is discussed about a scooter with a motor. First you need to say about the appointment of this homemade person, it is intended for entertainment, it can go on the park paths, go into the yard or go a small distance.

Now let's talk about the limitations inherent in this creation.

1. In the first conversation about speed. You cannot exceed 40 km / hSince the front wheel is small, the diameter is 260 mm, it is removed from the car and can withstand the load of only 80 kg.

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In addition, it has a large area of ​​contact with the surface of the relative diameter road under operating conditions on a two-wheeled vehicle. Simply put, our vehicle will throw from the side to the sideAs a result, the driver is at risk of falling.

2. Based on the type of tire selected, you can talk about the critical load that the wheel does not support. Since the front wheel is removed from the installation space, the maximum load is 80 kg. Now we believe that no contractor will walk at 40 km / h with a wheelbarrow in 80 kg. It can be concluded that the tire is not calculated for such a load. Consequently, the maximum mass on the front wheel should not exceed 40 kg. Taking into account the fact that the wheels have two maximum rider weight with the design with the design, should not exceed 80 kg.

3. Movement time. The speed of 40 km / h is great to travel at night, you need to use headlights. You can use an ordinary flashlight, but its power should be at least 20 watts. You can put a dynamo machine.

4. Age The man who controls them should understand what is happening and what responsibilities he has. Therefore, this may not be a child of 8 years old.

Now let's talk about that. Parts.

Based on their main target and limitation parameters, the selected power plant was. The engine was best tackled by chainsaws. The wheels were selected based on size and cost. That's why the front wheel is taken from cars, the rear wheel was in stock. It turned out to be the anterior wheel of Kart. This makes it possible not to worry about the excessive load. The drive to the rear wheel is done using a chain transmission because I had to make a transmission.

It is not difficult to calculate the rotation of the wheel at a speed of 40 km / h. When you know the engine and wheels, separate the first through the second, getting the lowering gear ratio 1:12. Then you have to select a step sequence. A chain was selected from a bicycle based on cost and load. However, since the minimum possible gear with a pitch of a bicycle has 10 teeth, the size of the gear can only guess at 120 teeth. Therefore it was decided to use 2 gearboxes. One of the difficult tasks was securing the bike gear to the chainsaw clutch.

After that there was thinner on the lathe as the step of the chain is the same and the width is different. The teeth from the clutch were cut on the lathe. The dimensions of the parts are very small as a result of the gear on the clutch disc I had to plant a hot plant. The asterisk was lowered in nitrogen, and the clutch disc was heated in the oven to 400 degrees, which allowed it to plant closer together, reducing the approval landing less. Then the clutch disks harden again. The first problem has been solved. In order to be able to easily change the ratio, the leading second transmission was taken from a sports bike.

Same has not been planted on the rear wheel bike's hot and sleeve in the transition hub, the transition hub sits on top of the shaft, and the shaft is on the bearings.

Mounting the gear and the brake disc to the wheel is made with a different hub. It's solid and sits in stock. Of course the shaft is fixed. The brake disc is cheaper than sharpening how to buy in the market, at least in this situation it was exactly that. The brake machine was used by the bicycle.

Not an uncommon process that creates a frame. It is easiest to work with a square, a square with a side of 15 mm is used. The frame was cooked in the welding machine so the metal does not run. The steering machine is used by the bicycle, only it is a little reinforced. Using throttle and brakes are easy. Throttle grip from a moped and brakes from a bicycle. The role of the gas tank serves a bottle of oil.

"Actually, life is simple, but we aggressively complicate it."

Many, probably still remember, how in the 70s, our fathers had scooters with wheels of ball bearings. As this rattling wonder caused extraordinary pride in us, and the neighboring boys - a white envy. But the time comes, everything changes. Fashion returned to scooters again, only our children ride them. And here is four years ago, in fixing your skills, I decided to make a scooter from a small, child cyclical kids.

Immediately warn you that it is necessary here: The welding inverter with electrodes (preferably 2), the bulbs and the measuring device of the profile tube of rectangular cross-section. And since the scooter has been made for a long time, I'll just explain a few nuances.

Turns out I got this:

It's pretty much down on acceleration and more like speed. And now all right. First we scream the back and front of the bike. And ahead, we saw the frame tube parallel to the steering tube.

I measure the profiled tube and in the seats of folds we make V-shaped insides with a mill. Bend and cook. Mounting spaces on the back and front nodes also take care of it. Rack of the steering wheel extend the additional tube, which is also welded to the domestic bike.

In this tube, this tube gets a bolt with a wedge knot. The native bolt was short, of course, and had to cut it in half and grow a piece of wire in the middle (6mm). Cook in a vice to go smoothly. Pay special attention at a distance from the place from the point to the surface of the earth. It must be minimal, taking into account the irregularities of the road. I had to repeat, the platform was too high.

The board and the roller are generally screwed from above. There aren't enough brakes. They can be brought out of the old bike (common edge). In general, the pedals can be left and the seat tube elongated and a hybrid, a kind of bicycle bicycle, is obtained.

If you want, you can install an electric motor with a gearbox on the site and the battery on the trunk. But that's a completely different story.

Homemade ski scooter

I probably can't open up America and say the kids know how to put their parents on the impasse ... there is a self-inflicting boring on little wheels that is no longer suitable due to the same little wheels, photos from the internet .

And again a small bike with small wheels that is not suitable because the steering wheel, a photo of a real bike, is not suitable.

So the task was made from a bicycle to make a scooter already on large wheels. Scratching the top, scratching into the garage ... that's later ... Since the scooter with small wheels no longer made it to the "technical meter", her daughter decided to go for the self-ski scooter. What is needed: free time (enough for vacation!), Scooters, pieces of sheet metal and mini-skis.

We deal with skis and drill through a diameter of 4 mm by diameter of holes.

Then select the necessary sheet metal, 2 mm thick, mark it.

Spend in front of you, spend the cut parts, I decided to do it.

We're trying to drive ... normal!

This is the main mechanic and the initiator of all this shame.

KRASIM, Hat, we're collecting this "sandwich" in a bundle

Time to build this scooter took two evenings for 3 hours - this is with an assistant. And in one thing I think faster. Not many photos without description (as he said above, about that later) ours with a parallel project "Scooters on Big Wheels". Structure of a scooter comes from behind.

Record Mishgun086 from Community DIY on Drive2

Make a scooter from scratch with your own hands

I'm studying at a rather fascinating engineering degree (HARVEY MADD), in which most people use any bike transport of long boards and single bikes in front of scooters and free spaces.

Step 1: design

Before I get into any real modeling, I first do sketches for most of my projects, including this one. I use them to figure out the most important dimensions that I need. After getting an idea of ​​what I'm going to do, I went around my college town with a laptop and a roulette and pulled out all the scooter styles I liked. As a result, I chose my A5-Lux scooter for my scooter. I also decided I would like to do this from aluminum, with a laser carved Acryldece and possibly LEDs for a night cruise.
After 20 minutes of measurements on which A5-Lux, I had all the sizes required for the next outline cycle. Then I switched to Google SketchUp and made a full 3D model. Although the details of the design with small parts in the Sketchup model were 100% exact, I used this model to find out what other aluminum reserve I need and the specific cut length for some details.

Later in the congregation (about 5 months later) I was studying SolidWorks in the engineering class. At this point, I had most of the parts in the assembly, so it was a lot easier to make an accurate model at that time. I used this model to find out the exact length and location of the "foldable channel beams", but I'll enter it later.
I mainly used 8-32 heads with a head turnkey head and 8-32 head buttons with a couple of 5-40 screws with a turnkey head for little things.
After much research online, I found that large castors for wheelchairs are cheap, durable, and quite accessible.
First off, I decided I wanted the deck to be covered with clear acrylic paint, so I also ordered a piece of clear green 1/4 from E-Street Plastics. I use a laser cutter to cut a deck.

Step 2: deep support

I started by supporting the deck and working it with subsequent parts. Stand for the deck is the part that supports the base of the scooter.
I used two lengths of aluminum 1 "x 1/2" x 20 5/8 "6061 as the" rail "and joined them with two 2" pieces of the same material to create a support for the deck. I used band saw. To cut them across the length, and then cut the ends for the length at the router with the ~ 1 "end router cutter (I did it for both the guides and the connecting sections).Each connection has two black oxide 1 "8-32 screws with an inner hexagon with a counter hole so the heads are flush.
Now I just drilled a 17/64 "hole (just over 1/4") in front of the guides to attach the steering column rack. I'll find out later with the rear wheel mount.

Step 3: sleeve racks and steering columns

Then I made racks with parts of which stretch from the axis of the deck support into the steering column. I made this part of a little different inventory, I used 1 1/4 "x 1/2" instead of 1.
In either case, I cut two parts about 16 inches and ran into one side of each. The other side had to be milled at a strange angle so at the moment I left one side rough.
I also cut two 1 "connector sections and watched both sides for the length.
Now has a difficult moment: processing this strange angle. It would be easy if the manager of the store allowed me to change the grinder's vise on the platter, but he didn't, so I had to show ingenuity. As a result, I used conventional fasteners with T-shaped grooves to secure parts into the mill mill and then collected a very schematic system to ensure that the parts were set up at a 32.3 degree angle to the mill's Z axis . I had an angle counter, but I had physical limitations due to a number of years. I had to use it in a two square tandem to make sure everything was lined up in sequence. And I had to do it twice, once for each job.
Fortunately, both parts came off just fine!
Then I attached two pieces with the connector pieces. For these connections I used 1 "stainless 8-32 screws with a semi-circular head and heads drilled with a clamp cutter. 33". To finish one part I drilled the appropriate hole 17/64 "in the end to connect it to a deck support.
The next part was even more difficult. I had to mill the corresponding 1/8 "deep recesses in the sleeve of the steering column (the thing that the steering column rotates through). Again, I had to press the item directly onto the mill, which was heavier than before because it was a whistle It also made it hard to correct the angular alignment as I didn't have a clear edge to look down at because it was rounded. After a lot of reflections, I made cuts and the joint was normal. You can see how that was Parts in the above figures are connected together.

Step 4: steering column

It was definitely the steepest part of the scooter. The steering column should turn smoothly even under high pressure and the friction of aluminum around aluminum is not appropriate so I was able to figure out how he isolated all of the aluminum in a rotating joint.
I used lubricated brass bearings that are around the steering column and slide into the steering column sleeve so that the column was separated from the sleeve, and the brass washer between the top of the sleeve and the shaft sleeve insulated the top of the joint. The lower hinge has to withstand a lot of weight, so I disbanded and bought a reference bearing for lubricating the steering mechanism.
I made the steering column out of two telescopic tubes. The bottom, larger diameter is about 1 1/4 "of the outer diameter, and the inner diameter is 1. I installed a threaded plate in the inner tube and he drilled the corresponding hole in the outer tube. These holes are at the desired height, and the threaded handle holds them together, in the future I may mill a slot in the outer tube so you can adjust the height easily but for now I will lower it at a certain height.
I used 1 "end mill to make a rounded cut on the top of the inner tube so another 1" tube could fit through the top to make the handle bars. I made a plug out of the 3/4 "solid rod and put it in the top of the inner tube so that the steering wheel plunged into that plug.

Step 5: front wheel mount

I made a 2 "x 1/4" aluminum front wheel mount with two 2 "x 1/2" fasteners. I disputed the connectors 1 inch apart and attached them to the side panels using the same 8-32 screws. After drilling and tapping all of the holes, I used the CNC mill to cut a 1.25 "hole at the top of the connector and 1.25" recess at the bottom. Thus the steering column can slide through the top and deliver downwards. This makes it easy to line up the weld and provides additional rigidity. Unfortunately, there are no good welding plants in my college and we cannot weld aluminum at all. So, during the spring break, I had to take a few pieces home so I could cook them. I will tell more about welding in step 9.
I drilled a .316 hole to line up with the 5/16 "axle and then I made a recess on the axle to match the locking rings that hold the axle in place.

Step 6: rear wheel mount

It could be the easiest job. I used a 1/4 "x 1 1/4" rod, connected it to a small piece of 1/2 "x 1 1/4" and fastened it with four screws with an 8-32 cylindrical head. I left other ends uneven because I wasn't sure where exactly to install the bracket at this stage of assembly.

Step 7: folding mechanism

For the folding mechanism, I wanted to be attached between the racks and the deck support, creating a triangle around the main hinge and preventing it. I also wanted to pull the bottom pin, fold the scooter, and then bring the same bar back to the rear wheel so it would be folded. Do one of them would be easy, but both are difficult because I had to satisfy the angle and length of the two triangles. This problem was pretty complicated and I knew I was going to get bolted if I tried to solve it so I decided to fix the entire scooter in solid works so I could choose the size for this item.
Since most of the scooter has already been built, there are only a few hours left for making solid movements as I have already defined all the sizes and details.
After collecting a scooter model, it took me about an hour to fit the length of the folding bar and the position of the holes in front of the scooter at an unfolded right angle, and was locked in a folded position so that the steering column was parallel to the Deck. I removed the size of the model and used it to make the real part.

Step 8: welding

When designing, I tried to limit the welding as much as possible, but there were several more connections that it was just impossible to do with screws. This is a connection between the racks and the sleeve sleeve, the steering column and the front wheel mount, and the ends on the folding plate.
I don't have a Welter-Tig at home either, but I read on the internet that you can actually weld aluminum with the MIG installation if you use a special aluminum twisted wire instead of the usual steel fittings and use 100% argon as the shielding gas . We also had to replace the sleeve, sprayer and tip as I think you can't use any details that affect steel welding wire. On a chemical level, something happened that affects aluminum welding when your material or a violent wire is contaminated with steel. This is the reason why you should also use a stainless steel barrel brush to clean the material before welding (for some reason with stainless steel everything is fine).
Most of the connections I needed were welded in. The steering column tube is very thin and I had to weld it to the 1/2 plate so I decided to just put the installation screw in instead of welding. If that connection doesn't work later on, I'll go through the welding problem.

Step 9: progress photos

Here are just a few photos of progress.

Step 10: acrylic deck

I made a deck out of 1/4 "transparent green acrylic.
I used the solid factory model to set the sizes of the deck and as a result I exported the model to file.DXF to cut directly with a laser cutter.
Not the funniest part of it was drilling and tapping 20 holes for all 8-32 screws with a semi-circular head that holds the deck to the guides.
I usually use the faucet in the milling machine's cartridge and tap on each hole immediately after drilling so that the grinder resets right over the hole. It offers the best faucet possible, but it takes ages since you have to remove the drill cartridge to change the collet chuck and everything else and then change the height of the Z axis which is very tedious if you do it 20 times In this case I decided against it in a quick sequence and just tapped it manually. My wrist was badly injured after the last knock, although glad I only used 8-32 screws instead of a little more or my hand could fall.
I cleaned all of the lube coolant and attached a deck! It looks great!

Step 11: latest touches and future plans

Finishing the surface:
I used sandpaper with a grain size 240 and 320 on aluminum in some places where scratches were noticeable. Then I used the scotch hell lining and separated the rest of the aluminum through it, which provided a nice smooth matte surface.
Final assembly:
I walked around each connector and cleaned the residue of the lubricating fluid from the threads of the screws and the threaded holes. Then I put the thread lock on all of the screws before assembling.

As always, there is work to be done, although I am very happy with the current condition of the scooter. Here are some things I want to work on so far and I will add updates as those parts are completed.
Add the battery pack, and super bright white LEDs under the acrylic deck.
Implement the rear pin block the mechanism so that I can block the scooter in the folded position.
Make a braking mechanism.
Make a slot connecting two holes on the outer steering column so that the handles are regulated.
Buy the best bearings for wheels to make your journey easier.
Remove more material from the inside of the steering column bushing to reduce steering friction.

Photograph of electric sinks Do it yourself from the finished set

Electric powered scooter - a toy that is interesting not only for children, but also for adults. There is freedom of movement on roads with any coating and a lot of driving pleasure. To consider this device as the main means of movement, as the main means of movement, of course, is not worth it, but to ride on it that someone received a lot of joy, it is unlikely that someone will refuse. Models of electric sinks for children and adults in the commercial network are enough, so everyone can choose in their preference. When "hands in place" you might want elecrosocat with their own hands. This is quite a satisfying job, the result of which is twice as much as buying a finished vehicle.

It is unlikely that it will want to make an electric scooter for an adult. But for a child, such a toy will be on top of dreams.

The motor for the scooter is no problem to buy today, but if the round sovereigns, then the motor is sufficient. Then it is necessary to determine the preferred variant of the torque: using two gears, chains or special nozzles (friction gears). A variant of the direct rotation is suitable, i. H. Use of a flexible cable, for example from the car's speedometer. The expensive version of the motorcycle often disappears instantly.

On the way it is necessary to solve the question of which wheel must turn? For a scooter it is not so critical which of the wheels - the front or the rear one turns, but the second option seems to be more correct as the brake can be installed on the rear wheel.

For the design, it's enough 14V, it means you can choose 4S1P configuration: brake machine and rechargeable drill. After we have removed everything with a drill, we get a motor with a gear and remove the body with a grinder, you have an axis with a rotor and with a conical gear drive. The axis of the scooter wheel is the axis of the rotor, and the part where the disc is attached is connected to the motor. By creating these manipulations, we can assume that the bottom of the scooter is ready. A serious problem is a battery. The heavy lead is unlikely to match, so you'll have to include the radio components behind the lithium battery ( perfect battery from an electric helicopter lipoly). It is possible to attach it to the steering wheel, where the baskets are often installed for small things. You don't have to invent the speed control as it becomes a regular button on the revolver controller.

It's a little longer, you can get that for what a lot of the tool was dismantled in the house.


With technical training I dared to "create" Elecrosamocata for his son. I'm not going to say that everything passed "like oil" because I had to tinker. But in the end the toy is ready and has already been tested in action, which gives me a well-deserved sense of pride.

Nikolay Chalnichenko, a resident of Ivanovo